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Robatayaki, meaning grill, originated in Japan’s Miyagi Prefecture. The original mode of service and eating had diners sitting around an open hearth at counter stools, while chefs sat on a deck, with only the grill as a divider between them and the carefully selected and displayed produce, fish, and meats arranged on a counter. Here in New York, once inside the venue, a few more steps through a minute garden lead into the adjacent room, transporting one into yet another part of Japan.